TreknMike

“Mysterious and Exotic, Nepal holds prime position in the imagination of every mountain lover and trekker in the world. It is home to the bulk of the Himalaya and, of course, Mt. Everest, planet Earth’s highest peak. In fact, of the world’s 14 highest peaks, 8 are in Nepal. It is also the birthplace of Buddha and home of the famed porters and mountain climbing Sherpa. This mixture of mountains and ancient culture make Nepal a magical land of superlatives and an absolute delight for trekkers.”

Pictures

Here is a link to pictures… Click here for pictures.

Great Flight

I flew out of Sacramento to Los Angeles on March 20 where I met up with Terry at LAX. We caught an 18-hour flight on Thai Airlines to Bangkok, Thailand. After a 5-hour layover, we continued on to Kathmandu, Nepal arriving in the afternoon of March 22. Kathmandu is the gateway for most Himalayan Treks.

Our flight was pleasant. Asian airline carriers rock! “Economy” on Thai Airlines is leaps and bounds above economy on American airline carriers. The spotless Airbus had plenty of leg room (at least 1-foot wider) allowing me to straighten my legs. Well-dressed attendants delivered steaming hot hand towels for washing before meals, menus with a couple of meal choices, real silverware, tasty food, and unlimited drinks.

Read the rest of the story…

Kathmandu was a Shocker, at First

The taxi ride to the Thamel district of Kathmandu was an eye opener. The streets are narrow. There are no traffic stripes. There are no sidewalks. In effect, oncoming vehicles pass each while incessantly honking their horns and dodging tons of pedestrians. Horns are not used in anger, but to notify other vehicles and pedestrians of each other’s whereabouts. I can’t believe it, but I didn’t see one accident or one finger in Kathmandu while walking the maze.

Many people were wearing masks (like you saw during the swine flu scare) because the city is polluted. There was too much litter and begging for my likes.

If you pull out a map or guidebook in public, or stop for any reason, you’re surrounded by people trying to sell you stuff. You learn quickly to just keep walking or say “No Thanks” hundreds of times each day.

We learned the city had power only from 12 noon to 4 PM and from midnight to 4 AM.

Though Kathmandu was originally a shocker, because it was so different, the city grows on you. I think I left my heart in Kathmandu and had a little tear in my eye when we had to leave. I look forward to returning!

Terry and I relaxed the remainder of our first day by walking around the Thamel district. We slept 11 solid hours that night.

Prepping for the Trek and the Porter

We prepped for our trek on March 23. Since we went unguided, we had to handle currency exchange, withdraw money from the ATM, schedule bus rides, buy necessary permits, buy drugs (from the pharmacy), etc.

The pharmacy was an experience. We stocked up on Tinidazone (for Guardia), Diamox (to prevent altitude sickness), Cipro (antibacterial), Azithromycin (upper respiratory infection), and more, all without a prescription. We paid only a few US dollars for all this and my family doc at home said 3 pills of Azithromycin alone would have been $100 US.

Terry and I did the unthinkable. We hired a porter from Asian Adventure Treks and Expeditions for $12/day. This was totally unplanned, but we learned the people really count on trekkers to help them make a living, plus it made obtaining all the necessary permits and bus tickets for the trek easier.

A local named Rayam introduced himself to Terry and me as we were looking at a map in public (big mistake) and took us on a tour of the city. We saw dozens of shrines scattered around (there is a shrine for teeth, rain, etc., etc.), visited Durbar Square with its dozens of shrines and temples that both Hindu and Buddhist mostly built in the heart of the ancient city between the 12th and 18th centuries, and walked to Swayambhu (Monkey Temple). We also stopped by “Freak Street,” which was popular during the hippie era.

30 Times More Likely to Die

On March 24 we were on a 6-hour bus ride to Besisahar – the beginning of the Annapurna Circuit at 760 m elevation. Bus travel in Nepal is reported to be the most dangerous thing you can do. “You are more than 30 times more likely to die in a road accident in Nepal than in most developed countries.” Like streets in Kathmandu, the highway is narrow, there are no traffic stripes, vehicles pass each other at high speeds on blind curves, and there are large drop offs without strong barriers to redirect errant vehicles back onto the roadway. On the way to Besisahar, we came across a bus that went over the side into the canyon below. Deaths were reported.

Trekking the Annapurna Circuit

We stayed in small guesthouses and village inns from March 24 through April 2 in Ngadi (930 m), Tal (1700 m), Chame (2600 m), Lower Pisang (3200 m), Manang (3540 m), Yak Kharka (4018 m), Thorung Phedi (4450 m), (crossed Thorung La Pass at 5416 m), Ranipauwa (3700 m), Tukuche (2590 m), and Tatoponi (1190 m).

Day 1 – Good Food and Beggars

A room in Ngadi with 2 beds is about 100 to 200 Rupees or about $1.20 to $2.50/night. You are expected to eat where you stay so the innkeeper’s can make a little money. A typical night at lower elevations on the trail for room, dinner, and breakfast cost $5.00 each. The cost increased to about $25 each at higher elevations.

Each meal is custom made to order and took about 1-hour to make. Many ingredients were out of local gardens. In Ngadi, we had our first taste of the staple daal bhaat, which consists of a large quantity of all you can eat rice with lentil like soup and curried vegetables poured over it. Every meal throughout the trek was most excellent.

Kids are begging for “pen? chocolate? sweets?” We tried to discourage begging. The kids are adorable. You can probably tell by all the pictures I took of them.

Day 2 – Porter Problems

We hiked from Ngadi to Tal. Our porter was initially giving us grief and saying “not possible” and “bad orders.” Some of the few English words he knew. We explained to Mone and his boss when we hired him that we move fast and far. We even lightened Mone’s load just so he could keep up. We called him “Easy Money.” Keep in mind that we didn’t want to hire a porter. It wasn’t beyond us to take our packs and fire him. Luckily, after some discussion, Mone came around and the trip was porter pain free. Terry and I would tell Mone which village we would hike to that day and Mone would always show up an hour or two later.

We met many solo hikers on the trail. One girl, Ann, from Taiwan was alone and she hired a female porter. If you’re a female trekker, I highly recommend you check out 3 sisters adventure.

Day 3 – The Stinking Road and Tough Kids

On the way from Tal to Chame, we encountered the road (jeep trail) under construction from Besisihar to Manang. This is part of the reason for hiking the Annapurna Circuit now – before the road is built because the road will ruin the trek. In addition, we spoke to people that hiked Everest and Annapurna and they all said the AC is more beautiful and the mountains are much closer. America’s Backpacker magazine in March 2009 also rated the AC the best trek in the world – but that will change when the road is completed.

While hiking along the jeep trail, a little girl that looked to be 5 years old hollered at me, “this way.” She was pointing out that the trail took off from the road. This little girl was carrying her book bag and walking home several miles from the nearest school. At the trail cutoff, she had a 1000-foot vertical climb. It amazes me how many locals walk the trails daily between villages and that little kids are walking by themselves through the mountains to and from school. The kids we saw also woke early to handle choirs before school. The Nepali kids are not only cute; they’re strong and tough!

I also had a little 5-year old boy hike along my side for several miles. I walk fast and this kid was keeping up without a problem. Blew me away.

Somewhere in here I lost the day of the week. I might have known the date, but for 3 weeks, I didn’t know if it was Monday or Saturday. Heard no news.

In snowed 10 inches in 4 hours in Chame. While it was snowing, it was thundering. That was a first. We heard the Thorung La Pass received 1.5 meters of new snow and was closed, but we weren’t too worried since we didn’t expect to reach the pass for 4 or 5 days. We did see people hiking out the next day.

Day 4 – Time Long Ago

The sun was shining in Chame in the morning and we were on the trail again. We saw Nepali kids/teens having snowball fights. The snow made for beautiful pictures and wet feet during the hike to Lower Pisang.

I saw my first 8000-meter peak, Manaslu (8156 m). There are fourteen 8000-meter peaks in the world. I also saw Annapurna II (7939 m) and Annapurna IV (7525 m).

I took 125 mg of Diamox at night to help acclimate to the altitude.

Life on the trek reminds me of time long ago. Generally, toilets (squat type) are outside, bathing is handled in rivers, clothes and dishes are washed by hand outside, food is cooked inside over wood stoves, etc. By the way, I like the squat toilets.

Day 5 – Fake Stuff

It was easy hiking from Lower Pisang to Manang. We were limited by the elevation, not distance. Above 10,000 feet, you should sleep no more than 1000 feet higher each night or you risk altitude mountain sickness (AMS), or worse.

We met people on the trail that were badly sunburned. They apparently bought Banana Boat sunscreen (SPF 50) in India but the stuff turned out to be fake. Another lady had swollen, burned hands. She paid $35 for a 1-minute visit to the doctor in Manang and received an expired prescription of burn cream.

Today we saw Annapurna III (7555 m). The terrain changed from forest to high desert above tree line.

I took my second Diamox, 125 mg, at night.

Day 6 – Getting Up in Elevation

It was another easy hiking day from Manang to Yak Kharka. Again, the increase in altitude limited us.

We could see Annapurna II, III, IV and Gangapurna (7454 m) from here. The terrain was becoming very desolate.

I took another 125 mg of Diamox at bedtime.

Day 7 – Funny Aussie

Same, same with another easy hike from Yak Kharka to Thorung Phedi (14,700 foot sleeping elev.). This was our final night before crossing Thorung La Pass [world's highest pass (on trail, I assume) at 5416 m or 18,000 feet].

I took a final 125 mg dose of Diamox. Diamox is a diuretic and it makes you pee a lot. We met a funny Australian who took Diamox. He was taking a leak at 2 am outside his room with light snow falling. He farted and then said to himself, “Darn, that wasn’t a fart.” Poor guy. Aussie’s are funny people and they can party hard.

Day 8 – Crossing the Pass and Loosing all the Trekkers

We left Thorung Phedi for the 18,000 foot Thorung La Pass. We gained more than 1500 feet per hour and reached the pass in 1 hour and 50 minutes. Most people can’t do that at sea level let alone 15,000 to 18,000 feet where there is only 50% of oxygen in the air. We blew by people that later said we were running. We were feeling good that day.

We descended 5000 feet to Ranipauwa. I had my first real hot shower on the trek at the North Pole Inn. Almost all guesthouses and inns advertised “hot showers.” These were not hot showers by our standards. Out of 15 nights on the trail, there were two hot showers. We decided “hot” is relative. If it’s not frozen, it’s hot.

Before arriving in Ranipauwa for the night, we spent an hour walking around the Muktinath Temple; the second most important sacred shrine to the Hindus and Buddhists in the world.

Ranipauwa is the end of the jeep trail coming from the opposite direction. The road has been open only a few years. Many jeeps and motorcycles use the trail. All the traffic we encountered the next few days ruined the trek on this side. We lost almost all trekkers as they took jeeps out. Passing jeeps were noisy and frequent and created much dust. It’s not fun hiking along a road. We knocked the entire west side out in 2 days to get off the road. This road will result in the best trek in the world to fall fast.

The people around Ranipauwa and Muktinath were very pushy, or desperate. “Come look,” “buy now,” “why don’t you buy know?” If you didn’t buy anything, it sounded like they were cursing you.

Terry and I had fun watching Mone play cards with other porters and drink beer all night.

Day 9 – The #*!@%$^ Road Revisited

We knocked off 20 miles from Ranipauwa to Tukuche. This is all high desert above tree line and there was absolutely no shade. It felt like hiking all day in Death Valley under the searing sun. We didn’t take a jeep because we wanted to hike the entire circuit. We were worried about Mone’s performance today after playing cards and drinking beer all night, but Mone actually beat us to the next town by several hours. Terry caught him riding on top of a jeep, smiling, as he passed by.

I saw my first glimpse of another 8000 m peak, Dhaulagiri (8167 m) and Nilgiri (7061 m).

We passed a major town called Jomosom. We stopped at a police check post here, unpacked our passport, completed the necessary paperwork, and packed up to leave. We walked 40 feet down the road and came across an Annapurna Conservation Area (ACAP) check post where we had to dig stuff out of our pack again and repeat all the same paperwork. Funny, they don’t coordinate efforts.

Tukuche had the nicest guesthouse on the trek – the Tukuche Guesthouse. Summer and his family own it. They are nice people and are typical of the guesthouses hurting because of the road. The guesthouse used to be full of people, but this night there was Terry and me and a new friend we met from Taiwan named Connie. I think we will see Connie again one day in Taiwan. I’m sure she’ll make a great tour guide.

We visited a distillery in Tukuche where local brandies (apple, apricot, carrot, and peach) are made. We wanted to buy a souvenir bottle and bring home, but we couldn’t do that to our porter – too heavy.

Day 10 – The Sprained Ankle – Blame the Marijuana

We hiked from Tukuche to Tatoponi, our second and last 20-mile day along the road – at least that was our plan.

Marijuana grows wild all over Nepal. We can smell people smoking dope frequently during our trek. It’s culturally acceptable to smoke it (we didn’t). We read that there is a lot of marijuana growing wild near Rukse Chhahara. While looking around for weed, Terry sprained his ankle when he walked off a step and landed funny on a coble. It was a pretty bad sprain with bruising. Terry and the porter ended up taking a jeep the short remainder of the way to Tatoponi while I finished the walk.

That night in Tatoponi, it was obvious that Terry couldn’t finish the trek. We agreed that I would finish the short remainder of the Annapurna Circuit and do the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) alone while Terry and Mone took a bus to Pokhara. Mone would return to Kathmandu from there. We expected to meet up in Pokhara in 7 or 8 days.

Day 11 – Friends Part Company

On April 3, first day of my Annapurna Base Camp trek, we said our goodbyes (sad day) and I hiked up a trail that left the road (thank God). The climb to Ghorepani seemed interminable. What a butt kicker! It seemed tougher than climbing Thorung La Pass.

On the Annapurna Base Camp trek, I stayed in Ghorepani (2750 m), Sinuwa (2340 m), Machhapuchhre Base Camp (3700 m), and Chomrong (2170 m). Don’t let the elevations fool you into thinking the trail is relatively level. It is all very, very steep with nothing but long up’s and down’s with no level sections for 40 miles.

At my lunch stop, a preteen offered to sale me marijuana.

I met a British lady – another female solo trekker – on vacation from the UK. She knew my hometown in California very well (population <13,000) and she knew the local Starbucks and Ellis Lake. It’s a small world.

Day 12 – Poon Hill and a “Not Possible” Hike

I woke at 4:30 A.M. on April 4 and hiked to Poon Hill in time for sunrise. This is a popular destination and offers some of the best views of Dhaulagiri, Annapurna I, and Machhapuchhre (Fish tail). (Note: Annapurna I was the first 8000 m peak climbed in the world. Maurice Herzog climbed it in 1950.)

Afterwards, I planned to hike to Bamboo on the Annapurna Base Camp trail. More than one Nepali in more than one village said, “not possible.” Not possible seems to be a favorite saying of theirs. I think Nepali’s are used to carrying heavy loads over short distances and not going fast and light. Well, it is possible, even though I didn’t make it. I ended up stopping in Sinuwa at about 4:30 P.M. (only 1 hour short of Bamboo) less than 10 minutes before the typical afternoon super, heavy-duty downpour and hail started. This was a good move! In route, I saw large Great Dane size monkeys.

Day 13 – Machhapuchhre Base Camp

On April 5, I hiked from Sinuwa to Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) at 12,150 feet. I was dragging today – tired – beat – pooped. I almost considered dragging my butt up a short distance further to the end of the trail at Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) at 13,550 feet, but stayed at MBC. I figured it would be an easy day hike to ABC without the pack the next morning.

I took 125 mg of Diamox for the first time in days at MBC due to the altitude.

Day 14 – The Longest Day, Almost

I woke at 5:10 A.M. on April 6 and hiked to Annapurna Base Camp. I arrived about 30 minutes after sunrise. The panoramic views were nonetheless spectacular. From left to right in the Annapurna Sanctuary are Hiunchuli, Annapurna South, Fang, Annapurna I, Annapurna III, and Machhapuchhre.

I left ABC and hiked to Chomrong for the night setting me up to be in Pokhara the next afternoon. Like everywhere else on the trek, the food at Chomrong Cottage and Restaurant was outstanding. Tonight it was pizza and momos. Pizza was always good in Nepal and I could eat it several days a week unlike home in the States.

Day 15 – End of the AC and ABC

On April 7, I left Chomrong and immediately dropped 2000 vertical feet on more uneven stone steps. After 3 days, I was dying for and in search of some level ground to really pick up the speed. A few hours later, I found what I was looking for!

I met a tiny little girl (5 years old?). She wanted “rupees (money), sweets, pen,” and when I told her I didn’t have any, she grabbed the tip of my trekking pole with a death grip. She wouldn’t let go and you should have seen the determination in her face to hang on as I tried to pry her little hands off. Did I say not to support begging?

The ABC ended in Naya Pul where I grabbed a taxi to Pokhara; a popular resort town in Nepal. I did the AC and ABC in less than 15 days, 3 days less than recommended for the AC alone.

ABC was one of the tougher hikes I’ve done. The long up’s and down’s combined with the long hiking days made it so. But, I was motivated to meet up with Terry in Pokhara who, I was convinced, was having all the fun. I wore knee braces for 3 straight days due to all the jarring/pounding. Not sure I’d do the ABC again as the incessant pounding gets harder on the legs/joints as I age.

Pokhara – Time to Relax?

The taxi ride to Pokhara was the same, same as Jomosom when it came to check posts. The taxi driver stopped and said I needed to go into the police check post. I unpacked my passport, completed the necessary paperwork and jumped back in the taxi to head out. The taxi driver drove less than 30 seconds down the road, stopped, and said I needed to go into the ACAP check post. I had to dig stuff out of my pack again and repeat all the same paperwork. Funny.

Terry’s sent me an email saying he was gone on a 4-day kayak trip. I’d meet up with him the next day.

Pokhara – Meeting up with Terry

I walked around the Lakeside area of Pokhara on April 8. That evening, Terry and I met up. We raced towards each other with arms wide open. Then we hugged – wait – wrong story.

Terry was very exited to share his kayaking details. He kayaked for 4 days on the Seti River. He talked about the beach camping, drinking beer, and taking it easy while I was suffering on the ABC. Kayaking was a first for Terry. He said it was a thrilling adrenaline rush, so much more than any mountaineering trip – and he’s been all over the world climbing.

Kayaking – Are You Out of Your Mind?

Terry talked me into repeating the kayak trip. This was a big move for me because I don’t know how to swim. We signed up with Lotus Waves Nepal (13,430 rupees or $170) for a 4-day kayak course on the Seti River (class 2+/3 rapids) from April 10 to April 13. Lotus Waves doesn’t have a Web site, but their competition has a decent site and covers the same trip.

Our first kayaking day on April 10 was spent on Phewa Lake in Pokhara enjoying the views of the Annapurna Mountains while learning to steer the kayak, rescue techniques (T-Rescue) and the Eskimo roll. Nothing like getting turned upside down in a kayak a couple of hundred times trying to learn the roll. Our main guide, Sanu Gurung, is currently ranked the No. 3 kayaker in Nepal. He has great patience and he spent a lot of time teaching us about kayaking over the next few days.

April 11 through April 13 was spent on the Seti River. We learned to cross the current (I got sunk right away but pulled off a beautiful T-Rescue), enter and exit eddies, etc. The rapids started right off. Terry was right. What a thrilling ride. I did sink several times a day in the rapids. I’d pull the skirt, exit the kayak under water, and feel a rock or two as I was whisked away – remember feet first! I have a few bruises and scrapes to show for my fun. It was a great time.

Camping on white sandy beaches was a relaxing part of the trip. The guides really cooked up some mean meals. During our last camp, Sanu and I hiked around nearby villages looking for a chicken. After much discussion with different villagers, and drinking plenty of rakshi (it is customary to share this drink during negotiations – a homemade distilled/brewed hard spirit that runs the gamut from “smooth firewater to paint stripper”), we stumbled back to camp with one fast cage-free chicken. I’m not really sure how the villagers caught it. Terry had the honor of butchering the chicken and the guides cooked it up.

Kathmandu Revisited

At the end of the kayak trip, we took a local bus to Kathmandu and were in town in time for the New Year’s Eve celebration on April 13. The Nepali New Year (2066) starts on April 14.

We walked around Thamel in Kathmandu on April 14 and ate lunch at the world famous Rum Doodle (climbers leave footprints on the wall in Rum Doodle after climbing in Nepal and Tibet).

After 2 days of just hanging out in Thamel, we took the morning and afternoon on April 16 to visit popular temples located east of town – Bodhnath Stupa (Buddhist) and Pashupatinath (Hindu). Approximately 60 to 70 cremations take place a day outside along the riverbanks at Pashupatinath.

This night we celebrated our trip and ate at the Mt. Everest Steakhouse. Terry’s local friend, Manita, was able to join us as well as friends from the Chec Republic and UK.

A One-Day Retreat

On April 17, I spent the day at Om Family taking the one-day package that included Kriya yoga, Hatha yoga, meditation, holistic bodywork, Reiki session, celebration and dinner. I left there at 9:45 P.M. just totally relaxed. I made new friends, including Asha, who works there. Anybody going to Nepal must stop in and say hi to this special person with a pure heart. Terry spent the day doing some last minute shopping and hanging out with friends we made.

Bangkok, Here We Come

The morning of April 18 we were up and headed to the airport for a flight to Bangkok. I was really enjoying Kathmandu and didn’t want to leave.

During the flight, we saw Mt. Everest. I also started to feel bad during the flight. (I picked up bronchitis or some other upper respiratory infection that took until about May 2 to clear up.)

We exited the airport in Bangkok and weren’t ready for the 100+F, 100% humid weather. It took a few days until we felt comfortable. We took in Khao San Road and ate chicken sauté and rice/veggies from street venders that cook food from carts posted along the road.

On April 19, we walked to the main river (bigger than the Mississippi) and took the water taxi. We later rode in the sky tram system, a tuk-tuk, and a taxi to see a small portion of the city.

The city is spotless. People were scrubbing the handrails and tile floors at the outdoor tram stations. The trams were big, modern and clean with TV’s playing inside. Their public transportation system is much cleaner than ours.

We met another funny Aussie named John who we decided to hook up with the following night. John visits Bangkok for 2 weeks every 8 weeks for vacation. Not a bad plan if you ask me. On the way back to Khao San Road, we walked in Lumphini Park. That evening was spent walking Khao San Road and eating again from street vendors.

On April 20, we moved to the Sweet Home Guesthouse in Bangkok near Nana Plaza to hang out with John. Before we left Khao San Road, we took a tuk-tuk around and saw the Giant Buddha and other Buddhist sights. We partied near Nana Plaza until 2:15 A.M.

Terry’s Birthday – It Never Ended

The next day, April 21, was Terry’s Birthday. We slept in and just hung around while we waited to leave for the airport for our flight home. Terry was able to squeeze in a Thai massage while I took a short walk around Nana Plaza. The plane left at 7:30 P.M. The flight was 15 hours long, but we landed in Los Angeles at 9:30 P.M., only 2 hours after leaving Bangkok. Terry’s birthday was celebrated on two continents and lasted approximately 40 hours (I forget and I’m too tired to figure it out). We stayed awake on the entire flight home hoping it would help us return to local time. Even sleeping only 8 hours over the last 3 nights, it still took a few days to get back on schedule.

The End

What a long strange trip it’s been. Terry and I went to trek the Annapurna Circuit (AC) in Nepal, but did so much more. Everything else we did was just icing on the cake.

Namaste. Mike

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