Jul 10 2007
Mt. Rainier – Success Couloir
July 9 – 10, 2007
Climbed Success Glacier (East) Couloir from Paradise. Descended via Dissapointment Cleaver. Total climb time, car to car, was 23 hours – a real adrenaline push. This was my 2nd climb and 2nd 1-day summit on Mt. Rainier. My climbing partners were Terry McClain (lead) and Marek Wencel. Approx 10,000’ vertical in 12 miles (one way).
Terry posted a trip report and photos on Mike Gauthier’s website/blog (Mike is the lead climbing ranger on Mt. Rainier). And Marek posted comments at Northwest Hikers. Be sure to see the rest of our Mt. Rainier trip photos.
My Trip Report:
July 9, 2007. Monday. Departed Paradise at 6:40 pm (up since 7:45 am).
Hot! Record highs in the area. Forecast in Tacoma was 83F/56F July 9 and 92F/60F July 10. The freeze level was somewhere between 13,500 feet and 15,000 feet. Skies were clear with little moonlight.
We traversed from Paradise to just above Success Glacier and rested from approx. 10 pm to 1 am. Gathered glacier water (silty) and drank mud hereafter.
There were very minor route finding difficulties getting on to Success Glacier. Kept running into a maze of crevasses. We were too high (8700 feet +/-). We eventually had to drop approx. 900 feet to get on route. The climb up Success Glacier was steady. Crevasses and the bergschrund were easily crossed. Rock fall was an issue and constant concern.
We were post holing up to our waist for a short section near 13,500 feet. It was relatively warm. Free water was available for the taking as high as 13,500 feet.
Some pro was placed above the rock bands near the summit. A slip here could result in a potential 3000+ foot fall.
12:30 pm July 10 – summited 18 hours after leaving Paradise. Only other people on summit were a couple of Brits aged 63 and 65 years old. They summited via Kautz Cleaver.
We returned to Paradise at 5:30 pm. 23 hours total climb time.
Went to bed by 9:45 pm (up for approx 38-39 hours).
Lessons learned/Do differently next time:
Try not to drink so much silty water!!!
Pick a longer climb (this one was too short).
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